In our latest instalment of the “Great Golf Debates,” E. Michael Johnson and Mike Stachura tackle the pressing question: Which is the better golf destination, Ireland or Scotland?

Mike Stachura: A debate over Ireland and Scotland? Why not choose something more straightforward like who makes the best barbecue (I see you, Memphis and Kansas City, but please let me introduce you to the great state of Alabama). Or maybe who’s the coolest behavioural economist (Leavitt is funny stuff, but really Kahneman is the OG, obviously). Or why not your favourite Friend? (Rachel? Monica? Phoebe? Please. Clearly, poignantly, with a passion that makes the soul ache for a thousand ages, Mr. Heckles). But be that as it may, let’s, as the witty internet equipment guru likes to say, get stuck in.

Ireland is a love song sung by Glen Hansard with a voice on the edge of romance and regret, filling up a Dublin side street just after the bars have closed. Scotland is a sombre, quiet, wistful, majestic comedy that is as much reflection as it is celebration, like Local Hero. In Ireland, you always want to have another drink even if you don’t drink—and someone is always there to buy you one. In Scotland, you always want to stay another week. Or month. Or forever. Oh, what? You wanted to talk about the golf? It’s the same thing.

Scotland seems a tour through golf’s rugged history (Prestwick, Dornoch and, obviously, St. Andrews, although there are incomparable others on that list, from Crail to Cruden Bay). At every turn, it feels like every course should be played twice to understand that what first seems impossible or goofy is actually entirely navigable and in a word, genius. In Ireland, the best golf always seems to have a twinkle in its eye before smashing a shillelagh across your left temple. But then it picks you up and has a laugh with you. Royal County Down is famous for this, but so are the par 3s at Portmarnock and the par 4s at Ballybunion Old, all of which are lovingly described in that perfectly Irish phrase that is at once compliment, joke and threat, “an absolute cracker.” That phrase has been summarized to mean “beyond brilliant.” So if golf in Scotland is brilliant, I’d say golf in Ireland might be an absolute cracker.

E. Michael Johnson: Hmmmmm. The home of golf versus golf that feels homey. In full disclosure I’ve spent far more time in Ireland than Scotland, but that doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate both. Perhaps not fully understand but understand enough. You’ve done a lovely job of setting things up with impeccable pearls of prose worthy of such lovely lands that I can’t even hope to match, so I won’t even try. As the commercial said, “Stay in your lane, bro.” For me that mostly means golf and drinking, neither of which are in your wheelhouse. OK, you do know golf. I mean, weren’t you travel editor of Golf Digest for about three weeks once? But I digress.

What’s difficult about picking a side is it depends on what you’re looking for. Do you want to be standing on the tee at St. Andrews with its clubhouse and 600 years of accumulated history bearing down on you and the sense that you are following in historical footprints set centuries earlier or do you want to make the wonderfully beautiful drive out on the Ring of Kerry to the peaceful splendour of Waterville G.C., perhaps stopping at Tralee either on the way there or on the way back? Although both places are among the last strongholds of that endangered species known as the caddie, do you prefer the Irish loopers who tend to be more jovial and good storytellers or the old-time Scots who, while often more businesslike, have the kind of local knowledge you’d expect from a seasoned tour veteran? It’s a tougher decision than whether or not to start watching “Tiger King.”

MS: Once we get coronavirus kicked, I’m hoping the CDC also just as quickly develops a “Tiger King” vaccine. And while drinking might not be in my wheelhouse, I’m willing to learn. Even tried Guinness when I was in Portrush a couple years back. Tasted like what finding a sweater in your bag on the back nine of a late October round feels like. And the Harbour Bar is one of those places you more or less have to feel. It’s not the food or even the drink. It’s just a sense that time doesn’t matter, laughter comes easier and why am I paying for a therapist and an investment advisor when this guy behind the bar is solving all my problems with quotes from Yeats and Seamus Heaney.

Scotland has some of those places, too. The music’s just not as good. (However, I was not skilled enough for the tasting at Bushmills, at 10 the next morning. Of course, that sounds like a typical Thursday for you, because, well, it’s 5 o’clock somewhere.) Let’s first be clear on one thing: There’s plenty of wicked-good parkland golf in both Ireland (Adare Manor, K Club, Druid’s Glen, Mount Juliet, Carton House) and Scotland (Gleneagles, Loch Lomond, Duff House? Blairgowrie?), but if you’re going to play that kind of golf in Ireland and Scotland, it better be because you’re staying a month or on sabbatical. The links stuff is what you’re after, and if it’s a numbers game, Scotland might have more of it. And, frankly, it’s probably going to be an easier driving experience. The roads in Ireland are better than they were, but that’s like saying leeches were a great leap forward in medicine.

Kevin Markham
Royal Dornoch

EMJ: Good to hear you passed on the 10 a.m. Bushmills. You need some mad drinking skills for that. And if you need a teacher on the imbibing front, I know a guy.

As for parkland golf, you can keep it. Not that it’s bad. Places such as Killarney Golf & Fishing Club and some of the ones you mentioned such as Adare Manor and Gleneagles are perfectly fine. But you didn’t travel across the pond for “fine” and these courses simply lack the grandeur of links golf. St. Andrews, Turnberry, Prestwick, Carnoustie, Royal Dornoch, Royal Troon—the names roll off the tongue with a cool liquidity that transports golfers beyond the over-stylized, ultra-manicured fairways of golf here in the States. In fact, Scotland holds almost a religious cache for so many. But then there’s Ireland—a country about the size of Maine—with great golf almost everywhere you look. Waterville, Ballybunion, Lahinch in the southwest; Old Head down south in Kinsale, Portmarnock, Royal Dublin and County Louth (Baltray) in the Dublin area; Rosses Point and Donegal in the west and my word, Portstewart, Royal Portrush and Royal County Down in the north. It is simply disgusting how many wonderful courses there are.

Now sure, the roads are terrible for the most part, but barreling down a narrow two-lane street driving on the wrong side of the road only enhances the experience, not detract from it. You just might want to wait for that properly “pulled” Guinness until after you’re off the road. I’m trying to find an argument for Scotland here, but it’s proving difficult.

MS: Great golf almost everywhere you look? As someone we all know from Scotland might say, “Are ya daft, man?!”

Scotland is awash in the greats of links golf like you mention, yes, but its second tier lineup and even its third tier surprises are movie-set quality. Nairn, Gullane, Brora, North Berwick, The Machrie, Western Gailes, Castle Stuart and the staggeringly under-appreciated Machrihanish, whose opening tee ball over the Atlantic Ocean can make you feel like the first guy who successfully cliff dove. Or in my case, didn’t.

But don’t fall asleep on Dunbar or Fraserburgh or Elie, which might have more holes you think you can birdie than any one course in your life. Until, well, you don’t. Kind of like the feeling I have when I look at a barbecue menu in Birmingham. Too much pork for just one fork, I believe is the expression.

EMJ: I guess for me it comes down to this: The historical significance of Scotland is undeniable. But I don’t go on a golf trip for a history lesson. The breadth of excellent courses in Scotland is substantial (and not all are “name” courses as places such as Brora, Western Gailes; Royal Aberdeen, Machrahanish and others testify), but some are stingy about who they let on (see: Muirfield) or in the case of St. Andrews require securing a tee time often as much as a year in advance. Sorry, Scotland, but in Ireland I find the people friendlier (after all, its motto is “Céad Míle Fáilte” or “land of a thousand welcomes”), the food better and the golf every bit as good, but a tad more accessible. And there are plenty of those lesser-known courses there are well. Ardglass, The Island Club, Ballyliffin, Enniscrone, Carne, County Sligo, Rosapenna and Dingle. Not a poor choice in the lot.

And while there are a number of fine hotels and other accommodations in Scotland, I love the fact that at a B&B such as Teach de Broc next to Ballybunion the bar doesn’t close when the keeper of the house goes to bed. I also simply have a soft spot for the Emerald Isle. It was my first trip abroad, then a few years later I went with a photographer to 22 courses in 10 days covering almost the entire outside of the country from the southwest all the way to the north and back down to Dublin. In 2015 I went on the best buddies trip of my life to Ireland. So I am flooded with good memories like this photo I took from the Waterville clubhouse of our second group finishing up. How do you beat that? Perhaps by later on rewarding ourselves with the reviving power of a whiskey and a recounting of the day on the turbulent linksland, with the hospitality of those serving us at its most warm and sincere. In short, golf in Ireland is an experience that enhances the belief that it is good to be alive.

So Scotland or Ireland? I’ll take Ireland, but not by much. In fact, it’s so close I think we need to go back to gather more evidence.

MS: Fair play, as they say over there. Even though we’ve just spent the better part of a James Joyce short story saying Ireland is that and Scotland is this, what we’ve really shown is that both of these aren’t merely equally tantalizing bucket list destinations, they’re entire bucket lists in and of themselves several times over. They aren’t like a box of chocolates. You know exactly what you’re going to get and you get it and it is spectacular and life-alteringly memorable and spiritually restorative in the way other people wrongly ascribe to French Impressionism or certain kinds of pizza places or early Kurosawa films, or, God save us, baseball. It is ridiculous to even consider any other destination in their class. Like suggesting there is a better kind of Dorito name than Cool Ranch. And I’ll grant you Ireland shakes your hand before you’ve even extended your arm.

But I’ll also remind you of a round at Western Gailes that teed off at 6, ended in the gloaming with the general manager greeting some straggling Americans with open arms and an open bar and then upon hearing that one of us was getting married that Monday with no family able to make the trip, set him up with the local minister and showed up in full Scottish highland dress kilt and tux with, of course, a second one for the groom. A best man you didn’t know you had. Scotland, Ireland, both are up for the task.

So, yes, here’s to more research. And soon. For all of us.

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If there is a more convenient resort offering in Middle East golf, we haven’t experienced it.

From arrival at the spectacular Falcon Clubhouse, throughout your 7,600-yard (from the championship tees) loop of Peter Harradine’s beloved design to your post round debrief on the Falcon Terrace and back to your luxurious hotel room, this is golf delivered to a true five-star standard.

The golf is challenging without ever being unfair – a trait of Harradine’s – with the championship layout’s par 5s all memorable, none more so that the 18th, which delivers a fitting finale to European Tour events and rounds with your buddies. You need to shape your ball of most tees but the big hitter is given ample opportunity to open their shoulders. Strategic bunkering and normally pristine greens complete the picture.

Race to Dubai champion Tommy Fleetwood will defend the famed Falcon Trophy in January as part of a “Magnificent Seven” including Johnson, McIlroy, Rose, Stenson, Kuchar and Casey. The marketers trumpet it as a #BestoftheBest, which speaks volumes of the course and the resort. Europe’s best rave about the event and turn up year after year even if the likes of Stenson and McIlroy have found the Falcon extremely elusive thus far.

Abu Dhabi Golf Club is actually home to 27 holes and you shouldn’t dismiss the little nine-holer, secretly referred to as the Garden Course but officially known as ‘Holes 19-27’.

Golf Digest ME has previously enjoyed a family stay and play focused solely on the little course where forward tees of 2,530 yards were perfect for a nine-year-old rookie and 3,341 yards ample for Dad. It was precious family time and also perfect for some floodlit fun the day before or the night after your round on the championship circuit.

Abu Dhabi is indeed an “oasis of tranquillity and beauty carved out of the desert” where the generous fairways meander through pockets of palms and ornamental shrubs and trees and seven saltwater lakes dissect both courses but rarely come into play.

Throw in extensive practice facilities, that iconic Falcon Clubhouse with three floors of lounges and restaurants including The Grille, the club’s fine-dining restaurant and one of the best steak and seafood restaurants in Abu Dhabi, a swimming pool…

We could go on and on – squash courts, a health club with sauna, spa and Jacuzzi – but you get the message. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better stay and play option in the region. They’ll even organise a game at sister club Saadiyat Beach G.C. if you fancy it – and can drag yourself away from the place champions call home.

www.adgolfclub.com

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Designed by Donald Steel in 1994, the course has recently undergone extensive enhancement by Mackenzie & Ebert, famed for their work on Open Championship courses such as Royal Portrush. They are fervent believers that golf courses should fit into the landscape and be in keeping with their setting.

At Minthis, the elevated tees invite everyone to ‘have a go’ yet narrow tree-lined fairways provide an exhilarating challenge, with each shot requiring careful assessment. Few places are so tranquil for a friendly game.

The signature 13th hole is a challenging par 3 that has to be played to be appreciated; the green is on an island surrounded by hazardous water. Looks are deceiving, and although it seems relatively straightforward it requires precision and accuracy to reach the heart of the green.

Now is an exciting time at Minthis with the development of two new holes. There will be a new par 5 hole; the challenge here is to try not to be distracted by the dramatic views of the Troodos mountains as you hit the long drive towards them.  A new par 3 will also require great skill with pines to the left and a large deep bunker on the right. The two new holes have been designed by Mackenzie & Ebert, not just to improve the current layout but add distinction and variety between the holes. The new holes will be ready in 2018 and 2019 respectively. Until then the current layout of the 18-hole par 71 course will continue to stimulate and excite players of all standards.

To top it off, Minthis is a looped course, with each nine returning you to the luxurious and comfortable clubhouse where the lounge, golf terrace or sports bar offer the perfect space for pre- and post-game drinks, while the restaurant transforms the finest local and international ingredients into culinary delights.

www.minthisresort.com

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The five-star fully integrated resort was celebrating as we went to print, having just been unveiled as the 2018 European Golf Resort of the Year at the prestigious annual International Association of Golf Tour Operators (IAGTO) Awards in Cannes.

When 680 golf tour operators from 65 countries cast their votes and your resort emerge from those eligible from a total of 2,000 resorts globally, you know you’re doing something right.

But far from resting on their laurels, Aphrodite Hills is nearing completion of a €2.5 million modernisation project, including the rebuilding of greens and bunkers. The temporary greens will be gone by January 19, ensuring the resort fully deserves its new IAGTO gong and the recognition as ‘Aphrodite Hills Resort – PGA National, Cyprus’, elevating its already stellar standing among Mediterranean golf.

Golf Director Andrew Darker takes up the story: “For more than 15 years, Aphrodite Hills has created a strong reputation as both a golf course and a state-of-the-art resort. We believe that collaboration with PGA will further develop our profile in the conscience of golfers and the thousands of visitors hosted daily throughout the year.”

PGA Chief Executive Robert Maxfield added: “We are pleased that Aphrodite Hills has become the PGA National, Cyprus, which exalts the quality of the remarkable and newly renovated golf course, as well as the excellent five-star leisure facilities. We are proud to promote PGA National, Cyprus alongside its other national facilities in Europe, further strengthening PGA’s global reputation.”

Nestled in the midst of a protected forest and with views of the Mediterranean Sea, Aphrodite Hills Resort spans 234 hectares of which  92 percent is an indigenous plantation, greenery and landscaping.

The prestigious Aphrodite Hills Hotel, with 290 rooms and suites, awarded Retreat Spa, 18 restaurants and bars are operated by Atlantica Hotels, Holiday Residences, offering stylish holiday villas and apartments for rent, world-class tennis and football academies, horse riding and a children’s club.

Aphrodite Hills also offers a variety of contemporary villas and apartments designed for comfortable living. All the properties enjoy the uninterrupted sea and/or golf views and, coupled with full property management services, make an appealing investment opportunity for Middle Eastern buyers.

Designed by acclaimed American architect Cabell Robinson, the 18-hole championship course is spread over 6,877 yards and challenges with lush Bermuda fairways, generous but tiered greens and challenging bunkers. The course expands through indigenous olive and carob trees and is built on two plateaus of a mountain separated by a dramatic ravine. It makes for some truly memorable tee shots. With outstanding views of the Mediterranean and five tees per hole, it is a course suitable for advanced or intermediate players.

www.aphroditehills.com

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A former home of the Earls of Clarendon that was previously used by Queen Victoria as her country retreat, five-star service promises a first-class experience, and that’s even before you arrive at the first tee of the 7,152 yard layout.

Designed by the world renowned Kyle Phillips of Yas Links fame, The Grove consistently features in the most influential Top 100 rankings and tests, much like his Abu Dhabi masterpiece, every club in your bag.

Phillips takes up the story of the parkland gem, which is acclaimed for its year-round playing conditions.

“This was a classic English parkland site. When you look across the landscape here with the longer horizon lines and you walk through the holes, you start to recognise some interesting landforms, some more dramatic than others. These begin to affect how you think about strategy on a particular hole,” said the American architect.

“So, at a macro scale, the course looks rather sympathetic, but at a micro scale, it really takes on an interesting personality. And part of creating this was remaining responsive to the integrity of the historic landscape that was around it and, at the same time, achieving a great golf experience.” Mission accomplished.

The Grove first came to prominence in 2006 when, just three years after opening, it was selected to host the 2006 American Express Championship. It speaks volumes that it remains the only English venue to host a World Golf Championship event.

You’ll be able to channel your inner Tiger Woods during a visit, although you mightn’t quite be able to match the former world No.1’s winning 23 under par effort for an eight stroke win.

On his way to victory, Tiger famously scored three eagles and a birdie on the 567-yard, par 5 18th (now the 9th). Three plaques, all within 20 feet of each other, commemorate the feat by marking the spots where his three drives came to rest. Good luck trying to emulate even one of his stunning approach shots!

Another former world No.1, Luke Donald, chose The Grove 10 years later as the venue for the 2016 British Masters. It was won by the Swede, Alex Noren, who triumphed with an 18 under par total.

Ernie Els was part of the field and had this to say: “I loved The Grove. Let me tell you, it is very, very impressive. I would say it’s the best-conditioned golf course in Europe, certainly in my experience. Everything was perfect; the course is great, the tees, fairways and greens were incredibly manicured and practice facilities were amazing.”

The Groves’ official Golf Ambassador David Howell, well known to UAE golf as former winner of the Dubai Desert Classic, is another fan. “There are very few five-star pay and play golf venues in the UK that create a premium experience that is delivered in a relaxed, friendly way, but The Grove has been at the top of its game, delivering this day-in, day-out since opening in 2003.”

Stay & Play
Alongside the championship course, The Grove offers the blend of character and style you’d expect of a country estate – and a ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ property.

With 215 luxurious guest rooms, including 26 suites within the historic 18th Century mansion, guests are welcomed into an environment that weaves 21st Century living with the original period architecture.

There are three restaurants – each with its own bar – including the sophisticated fine-dining restaurant Colette’s, which is under the watchful eye of head chef Russell Batemen, the 2015 National Chef of the Year. Guests can also relax in one of the many lounges within the mansion with its beguiling mix of contemporary design and relaxed, friendly service.

After you round, keeping in mind you probably pushed a little to keep up with Tiger, why not enjoy the award-winning Sequoia Spa, where professional therapists revive golfers and their non-playing partners using Natura Bissé and ESPA products.

There’s also an indoor swimming pool at the spa designed to make you feel like you’re taking a secret midnight swim, while the sauna, steam room and vitality pool are the perfect place to relax after a personal training session in the gym.

We suspect, though, that you’ll want to spend most of your escape outdoors, either on Phillips’ memorable layout or exploring the estate’s network of trails by foot or bike. You’ll stumble upon The Grove’s famed ‘Walled Garden’,  home to a 22m outdoor heated pool, tennis courts croquet lawn, and even a private beach.

Green fees vary from £165 (Sunday–Tuesday) to £189 (Wednesday–Saturday) but what never changes is the quality of the golf or the surrounding experience. With more than 30 flights a day from the Middle East landing at Heathrow, a 30-minute drive away, ‘London’s Country Estate’ is an even more alluring option for golfers looking to escape the mid-summer mercury.

www.thegrove.co.uk

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